There’s a new designer on the Penthouse level of Costa Mesa’s fashion mecca. Familiar in Los Angeles culinary circles, the creative pairing of Yassmin Sarmadi and Chef Tony Esnault originated from crossing paths at a charity benefit; at the time, Sarmadi was linked to Church & State, and Esnault led the kitchen at Patina. Their union manifested into successful restaurant Spring (2016-2018), plus Church & State earning its first Michelin star this year.
Yassmin and Tony ultimately sold the L.A. property, shifting their focus to debut the much-anticipated Knife Pleat on the top floor of South Coast Plaza over the summer. Named after a sewing term to describe sharp, uniform creases on a garment, they recently extended service to include lunch and Sunday afternoon tea. We spent a leisurely evening exploring French cuisine with our dining companion.
Fittingly, a Christian Dior commenced our meal. Following the haute couture theme, our nod to this fashion icon was a base of apple brandy known as Calvados. Pierre Ferrand Dry Orange Curacao lends a complex citrus note, before tart lemon rounds out the fruit-centric cocktail. Served straight up in etched glassware, our palate is primed for what’s to come.
Listed prominently at the beginning, Bread could easily be glossed over for caviar selections. Upon further inspection, we discovered the phrase “Rodolphe Le Meunier” describing their butter. Le Meunier is an artisan cheese monger and purveyor of an exquisite spread that’s been cultured, patiently churned by hand and, thankfully, salted to his specifications before transport. It resulted in a flavor that’ll leave you longing to dress a second baguette.
Among the appetizers, a breakout star was our saucer of Wild Burgundy Escargot Ravioli. Celestial pasta suns bathed in fermented black garlic and mushroom broth. We were encouraged to feast on them in single bites, akin to soup dumplings, to savor their flavor in its entirety. Every buttery sunburst gave way to a flood of fines herbes such as thyme, parsley and tarragon.
Sommelier Victor Moreno frequented our table to suggest wine pairings, which varied from a full-bodied 2015 Tablas Creek Roussanne to a fruity 2005 Mathias Muller German Riesling; although our companion noticed a loyalty to French wines on their list, which we wondered out loud to Moreno. Knife Pleat’s philosophy believes, “What grows together goes together.” It is an understanding that food and wine are intertwined, with flavors developing naturally, “The best pairings should always come organically. The wine list is there to complement the beautiful cuisine of Chef Tony.”
Per Sarmadi, New Zealand Lamb Rack was inspired by the south of France, where Esnault spent a great deal of time. There was a duo of preparations for this grass-fed meat. In addition to a classic grilled rack, the shoulder was braised overnight before being joined by piquillo peppers, lemon and dates, then enveloped in puff pastry to form a pastille– reinforcing the notion that divine things come in small packages. Mint-infused lamb jus and house made harissa sauce ensure a moist canvas for our main. Moroccan-spiced eggplant and zucchini alongside warm couscous engaged our taste buds.
Our finale appeared as a refined quartet of Caramel. First, an ornate tuile cover to crack using our spoon. Beneath its crisp top layer, we were rewarded with a treasure trove of sweet cream and liquid essence woven between elements of almond cake and cognac mousse. Caramel ice cream and cake crumbles added to its layers of complexity. A statement piece by itself, our stunning dessert wrapped up a fashionable evening.
Knife Pleat is located at South Coast Plaza, Penthouse Level, 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa. 714.266.3388/KnifePleat.com.