La Couronne, where Chef Pascal Olhats began his culinary journey, continues to delight guests with its ambience and superb French cuisine
The historic city of Rouen, France is home to one of the oldest restaurants in all of Europe, La Couronne. The town, located in the Normandy region, is steeped in history and is perhaps best known for its 4th-century Gothic La Cathédrale de Rouen. This Roman Catholic church was painted in every form of drama, light and season by Impressionist painter Claude Monet. Rouen is also, sadly, where Joan of Arc met her fate in 1431AD.
The delightful town is a 90-mile drive northwest of Paris, or just over an hour by train. The restaurant is a short walk from the train station, and en route, guests stroll past flower shops, boutiques and French-inspired storefronts.
Walking under the archway of the famous Great Clock, the colorful face welcoming all who pass through, opens to the Place du Vieux Marche, or large town square. The belfry houses the city bells and one of the oldest clock mechanisms in Europe. It was in operation from the 14th century until1928 without stopping. On one side of the town square is a row of timbered three-story buildings and on the other side is the Church of Saint Joan of Arc, commemorating the place she was burned at the stake. On the far side of the church is a daily farmers market.
La Couronne sits on the market square and is a charming place to visit and enjoy authentic French cuisine. Guests enter on the main floor into a small waiting area. Escorted by the stunning and attentive owner, Madame Darwin Couvin, diners descend five short steps and are typically awestruck by the elegant beauty as they behold the dining room. Large windows, the original timber beams, drapery, pink tablecloths, rugs and all its glory, it is reminiscent of being on a large, over-stuffed wooden ship. The wine cellar is in the basement and the kitchen is toward the back of the building. A steep set of stairs and wood railing leads to the second floor, where private rooms can be found, and the third floor contains offices and dry storage.
Pascal Olhats has been cheffing in Orange County for more than thirty years; however, his culinary journey began in Rouen, France, where he was born. Like many young chefs, our local and beloved chef began his passion for cooking at the loving hand of his mother tending to his techniques with her adept nature in the kitchen. He was fascinated with using all types of ingredients, dairy from the farm, seafood fresh from the ocean and seasonal vegetables found in the farmer’s market across the town square.
In Europe, it is all about apprenticeship in the kitchen. Pascal recounts that his first positions were in the top kitchens of his hometown. This included both Hotel de Dieppe and La Couronne in the heart of the old city. La Couronne also happens to be the first restaurant Julia Child visited when she and her husband moved to France in 1948 for an assignment by the United States Information Agency. The restaurant was Julia Child’s first meal in France and it truly transformed her. In fact, to this day, La Couronne celebrates Julia’s first meal in France with a prix-fixe menu in her honor. All of the dishes on this special menu are precisely what Child ordered, including oysters on the half-shell, Sole Meunière, which is sole doused in a butter and parsley sauce prepared tableside, and a fresh green salad. All, while sipping a Pouilly Fumé, a crisp white wine from the Loire Valley. Sublime. She later recounted this epic experience in her book, My Life In France.
La Couronne is known for its pressed duck, standing rib roast, classic escargot and many seafood dishes, such as fillet of sea bream and, of course, sole. Although the patio can be tempting, Pascal encourages guests to dine in the main dining room. Table #4 is a favorite as diners can enjoy an expansive view of the entire room. The owner is always in a lovely suit or dress, with her board smile and sweeping blonde hair framing her face. Her perch is an elegant wood carved table tucked in the corner, where she conducts business and keeps a close eye on all the goings-on and the pitter-patter of the staff. Some guests sit on a small couch side-by-side, while others enter with their beloved dog in tow. Well behaved, they quietly slide their dog under the table at their feet. At both lunch and dinner, the calm of the dining room fills with conversation and activity in short order.
Recommendations are aplenty by Pascal, including the Escalope de Foie Gras and Saumon Fume Aux Bois de Hetre (smoked salmon). A lovely start. Mixed Grill de Poissons Fins (mixed grill of fine fish) is also very popular and, seasonally, the grilled shrimp is flavorful and often served with grilled zucchini and a rich sauce. A glass of Verre de Chablis is the perfect complement. For entrées, the special of the day is a Pascal favorite, such as the Saumon and the Coeur de Filet de boeuf (heart of beef fillet) in a rich Cabernet reduction. The Chariot de Fromage (cheese cart) features a plethora of delicious types of French, and, yes, the Grand Marnier Souffle de Normandy calls to many after the fromage course.
This is a very special place, filled with a rich history that pays homage to the delightful cuisine of the ages found right here in Rouen. Thank you to Pascal for bringing this to life for all of us who enjoy classic restaurants with a proud legacy.
La Couronne – 31 Place du Vieux Marche/LaCouronne.com.fr