At Louie’s by the Bay, Piero Selvaggio is the epitome of hospitality
Despite their online presence proclaiming the cuisine “pasta and carne,” to consider Louie’s by the Bay merely an Italian steakhouse is a disservice. This was our revelation, as we spent a recent Sunday supper along Pacific Coast Highway. And, just as one might want to consider Piero Selvaggio simply a managing partner, he exudes a warmth and familial quality that only Piero can project. It is this memorable personality carried over from his previous restaurant tenure that locals are drawn to.
Our initial taste at dinner stems from properly marinated and grilled Portuguese octopus, served alongside squid ink-infused couscous. Alternating bites from an unassuming salad of peppery rucola and mache offer not only a textural balance but an earthy counterpart to this oceanic meat. It reminds us of his colleague Ron Salisbury, founder of the nearby Cannery Seafood of the Pacific, whom he shares management responsibilities with. Charting a relationship that dates back 30-plus years, their matching work ethic is practically brotherly.
Aromatics from wild mushroom tortino surrounded by creamy saffron fonduta swiftly captures our attention. Chanterelles, champignons and porcinis are the umami-rich base for the flavorful pie. Selvaggio encourages us to share its garnish—a delicate, Parmesan tuile referred to as frico. This simple gesture feels a bit symbolic, akin to breaking bread with loved ones.
“I don’t believe in social media as I do in experiences.” Piero quips.
We shook hands with Chef Antonio Orlando on a previous visit, who explained that he was one of Selvaggio’s executive chefs at his Valentino establishment. Orlando touched base with Piero when they were screening chefs for Louie’s, inquiring about the vacancy. If there’s one commonality we’ve learned from interviewing those in the service industry, it’s that the loyalty among a work family can be as strong as your own family ties; this especially holds true in the restaurant world—as evidenced by chef’s presence. A signature dish found on Valentino’s menu, Il Crudo’s homage is a sashimi-style trio of salmon, tuna and hamachi, assembled with precision after incorporating an avocado and citrus essence blend.
Traditional pasta bowls are envisioned as chewy ribbons piled in red sauce. Louie’s by the Bay removes those preconceived notions with handkerchief pasta sheets known as mandilli. Warmed by rich pesto, it is a lesson in restraint; fewer ingredients executed well allow the flavors to entertain our taste buds. Before we can forge ahead, the casareccia arrives at our table. Forkfuls of zucchini, eggplant, chopped basil and twisted pasta tubes represent this southern Italian mainstay. Smoky mozzarella binds our ingredients, much like Hans Prager’s ability to connect Salisbury and Selvaggio decades ago.
Sipping our vino recommended by Piero, we recall his world-renowned collection of bottles brought over from Valentino’s Santa Monica cellar. Our hesitation to settle on a meat or seafood main course translated to the kitchen plating a simple surf and turf entrée to appease both of us. It’s in his nature to accommodate, to treat us as he would family.
Describing courses in depth as they arrive to the table, clearing dishware to make room for subsequent tastes, and knowing when to step away so we can partake in our meal are qualities more instinctive than taught. A gracious host, Piero Selvaggio has mastered this ability to anticipate needs and responds accordingly.
“Challenge yourself to do something special.” he encourages.
Challenge accepted.
Louie’s by the Bay
2801 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach (949) 720-1800