Driving Scotland’s North Coast 500
Many people who visit Scotland and travel as far north as the pretty town of Inverness believe that they’ve seen the Highlands. But there’s a whole spectacular swathe of Scotland north of Inverness that, until recently, few tourists ever got around to visiting.
In 2014, the North Highland Initiative set out to change that. The NHI’s objective is to develop economic growth in this remote region, and its canny members came up with a plan: they would map out a loop route around the far north of Scotland, using existing roads, linking many of the iconic but under-visited sights – and brand it with a catchy name.
Thus was born the North Coast 500 (NorthCoast500.com), today regarded as one of the most beautiful driving routes on the planet. Its 516 miles, starting and ending in Inverness, take in some of the most extraordinary scenery in the world: wild storm-battered seacoasts, majestic mountains, glimmering lochs, lofty castles and picturesque villages.
The route has accomplished its aims and then some. According to Highlands and Islands Enterprise, business at hotels, B&Bs, shops, distilleries and the like along the route has increased 15 to 20 percent year over year since 2015, with a 26 percent rise in visitor numbers.
This is a region that rewards the patient, respectful visitor who keeps both eyes open to all its wonders. Don’t hurry through it just to say you did. Take five days to a week, driving a hundred miles or less per day. Plan your route so you’re on the road part of the day and then have time to explore each destination. Take your time, talk to the local folks, and soak in the views.
You can go clockwise or counter-clockwise around the route from your starting point in Inverness. We decided to go counter-clockwise, renting a car in Inverness and heading up the northeast coast through the Black Isle and on up to the hard-working town of Wick. Then we took the ferry from John O’Groats to Orkney, where we stayed a few days, and then back to the mainland to continue around the north coast. We meandered down the west coast – so packed with astonishing scenery it would need another article to do justice to it — and finally back across to Inverness, completing this extraordinary loop.
Here’s a selection of some of our favorite places along the way:
The Black Isle
Coming out of Inverness, we stopped at The Storehouse (TheStoreHouse.scot) on the shore of Cromarty Firth, a lovely farm shop where we stocked up on picnic fodder. Just north across the bridge is the scenic Black Isle, a photographer’s dream.
Tain
Whisky lovers can tour the handsome Glenmorangie Distillery (Glenmorangie.com), home of one of Scotland’s best-known single malts. Not far away, in Edderton, is Balblair, perhaps the prettiest distillery in all of Scotland.
Dunrobin Castle
It’s worth touring the inside of this classic Highland castle (DunrobinCastle.co.uk), built for the Dukes and Earls of Sutherland and remodeled in 1845 in French chateau style. But the really spectacular views are from outside, looking up from the gardens.
Hill O’ Many Stanes
South of Wick, this ancient site strewn with more than 200 lichen-covered stones is thought to be a 4,000-year-old lunar observatory – but in fact, no one knows exactly what it was used for. There are still mysteries left in the world!
Orkney
This archipelago of misty islands is dotted with Neolithic and World War II-era sites. Base yourself in Kirkwall, hang out at The Reel (WrigleyAndTheReel.com) for live traditional music and comfort food, and explore. We hired a local taxi driver to take us around to the sites for about the same price as a crowded bus tour would have been.
Duncansby Head
The north-easternmost point of mainland Scotland, boasting a lighthouse and stunning views to monumental jagged sea stacks that loom up out of the restless, roiling tide.
Castle of Mey
Beloved by the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, who used it as her far-north retreat, this castle was the seat of the Earls of Caithness. You can tour the castle, have tea there, and wander its extensive gardens (CastleOfMey.org.uk).
Smoo Cave
You can walk down to this sea cave from the headlands above it, and enter the outer chamber, where a waterfall plunges into a deep pool. If you want to go further inside, there’s a good boat tour (SmooCaveTours.weebly.com).
Ullapool
Hugging the shores of Loch Broom, Ullapool is a charming fishing village that makes a great base for taking in the region’s spectacular scenery. Stay at The Ceilidh Place (TheCeilidhPlace.com), a hotel/restaurant/bookshop that also serves as a Highland cultural center with live performances.
Poolewe
Quiet little village that boasts the outstanding Bridge Cottage Café (BridgeCottageCafe.scot). Ana and Manuel, transplants from Spain’s Galicia region, serve up sandwiches, pastries, and the best coffee around. Garden aficionados will want to visit the nearby Inverewe Gardens (nts.org.uk/visit/places/inverewe), where exotic plants thrive because of the effect of the Gulf Stream.
Loch Torridon
Sleep in baronial Highland style at The Torridon (TheTorridon.com), built as a shooting lodge in the Victorian era and today one of Scotland’s finest luxury hotels. Located on the edge of tranquil Loch Torridon, the turreted hotel is lorded over by the triple ridges of Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Eighe and is an excellent base for hill-walking. Its critically lauded 1887 Restaurant has its own gardens and raises its own pigs and Highland cattle. Hang out in the cozy bar and toast your last stop on the NC500 with one of their more than 365 whiskies, before heading back to Inverness in the morning.