The first thing you notice in Marrakesh is the sunlight, clearly delineating each stone and color and face: the red buildings, the startling blue of a door, the yellows and oranges of spices piled high in the souk, the lines etched into the face of a street musician, the sunset gilding the Koutoubia minaret.
And then it’s the fragrances: smoke and new leather and baking bread; the complex aroma of a tagine with its delicious waft of coriander and cassia, the passing note of expensive perfume as a high-fashion model walks by.
And finally the sounds: the jingle of a horse’s harness, the cries of hawkers in the market, car horns, the sizzle of grilled meats, a band of musicians on traditional instruments, the melodious sound of the muezzins calling people to prayer from every minaret in the city.
Marrakesh, the chief city of central Morocco, is an easy side trip if you’re visiting Europe. From Spain, for example, you can get an inexpensive Ryanair flight from Madrid that will loft you to Marrakesh in a few hours, and you can make it a few days’ visit or longer.
Are just a couple of days in Marrakesh really worth it? From my own experience, I would say a definite yes. Sometimes a short sojourn in a city can give you that taste that will bring you back someday for a longer stay; and even if you never happen to make it back, you’ll always have that happy experience in your memory.
Here are some of the sights we managed to pack into two busy, memorable days in Marrakesh:
Djemaa el-Fna: It’s impossible to put into words what a spectacle the daily show on the Djemaa el-Fna is; you truly need to experience it for yourself. Bustling at all hours of the day, the expansive lopsided plaza really starts jumping as the sun sets. As has happened for more than 1000 years in this ancient showplace, street musicians of all types appear, snake charmers mesmerize their slinky pets, acrobats leap and tumble, henna artists set up shop, vendors hawk their wares, and more than 100 chefs fire up their grills and start selling their delicacies. You could spend every hour of every evening wandering the Djemaa, eating amazing food and watching the endless show.
The Souks: Marrakesh’s strategic location in the heart of Morocco means that it was the confluence of many caravan and trade routes, so its souks (markets) are very old and the pathways through their shady, narrow alleys are very convoluted. It’s easy to get lost (but what a place to be lost in!) as you wander the winding paths and browse shops selling everything from jewelry and carpets to leatherware, olives and spices. This is the best advice in this article: hire a local guide to take you through the souks, most of which are right on the edge of the Djemaa el-Fna. And remember: bargaining is expected –and also part of the fun!
Saadian Tombs: A royal necropolis in the heart of Marrakesh, this tomb complex dates mostly from the 1500s-1600s AD and houses tombs of various members of the royal Saadian dynasty – sultans, princes, chancellors and their wives. A visit here is a fascinating and quiet respite from the busy streets just outside. Cat lovers will enjoy watching the dozens of felines who live and raise their kittens among the peaceful tombs.
Majorelle Garden: The Jardin Majorelle, lovingly created by French painter Jacques Majorelle over a 40-year period starting in 1923, later became the home of famed designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Berge, who lived in the villa in the midst of the gardens from 1980 until Saint Laurent’s death. The gardens showcase more than 300 plant species, including palms, water lilies and desert cacti. Saint Laurent was at his most creative here, and said he often dreamed of the garden’s unique colors. When the fashion icon died in Paris in 2008, Berge opened the garden and villa (now a museum housing Saint Laurent’s collection of Berber clothing and jewelry) to the public.
Food: Don’t leave the city without enjoying a tagine – the succulent meat-and-vegetable stew simmered in spices inside a traditional clay pot. Also, you should try a b’stilla, a pie made with pigeon or chicken, layered with phyllo pastry, almonds, eggs and spices. The go-to beverage is strong and excellent hot mint tea, served with lots of sugar.
Camels: If your heart is set on riding a camel, there are ample opportunities. There are numerous tours you can book to ride a camel out into the desert surrounding the city. But if your time is short and you just want a brief camel experience, stop by one of the many ride vendors with their strings of camels on the outskirts of the city. After bargaining the price, they will happily introduce you to your camel, boost you aboard and lead you around the parking lot for a while, as you picture yourself queen or king of your desert domain. Touristy? Yes. Fun? Definitely.
My 48 hours in Marrakesh were unforgettable, and a great way to sample some of the highlights of this ancient and beautiful city. I will definitely return!
Mary Platt is director of the Hilbert Museum of California Art at Chapman University, and a frequent world traveler and writer on travel and the arts.